For Caviar Tastes on a Craft-Beer Budget

Reasonably priced does not spring to mind at mention of the chef Thomas Keller’s French Laundry or Per Se. But it does apply to a new line of caviars, Regiis Ova, from Mr. Keller and Shaoching Bishop, who was previously with Sterling Caviar and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar, two California companies. I found the sturgeon caviars — from sustainable farms in California, Uruguay and central China — to be generally good quality and range from $66 to $120 for 30 grams (about an ounce), with higher prices delivering the most attractive and best-textured roes. The line also includes trout, salmon and excellent whitefish roe ($20 to $25 for 50 grams, about an ounce and three-quarters): Regiis Ova,

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